Pressure washer
Extension cord sizing for a 15 A pressure washer
A typical electric pressure washer is a 13–15 A, 120 V motor that lives outdoors. Size the cord for the nameplate and the feet to the outlet — then buy that gauge in an SJTW jacket.
Read the plate on your washer. Most consumer electric units land at 13–15 A on 120 V while the pump is running. That number is continuous-ish draw under spray, not the first instant the motor spins up. Start surge is uglier, same as an air compressor. A cord already sagging at nameplate sags more on that hit. Pressure falls, the motor heats, the outdoor GFCI trips, and people blame the washer.
Gas washers are a different product: they do not want an extension cord. Some larger electric units are 20 A or 240 V and want a dedicated receptacle, not a 15 A outdoor reel. This page is the 13–15 A, 120 V driveway load. Many manuals say use the shortest cord you can, or none. If the hose can reach from an outlet, let the hose travel.
Shop picks for a 15 A electric washer
| Run | Shop pick | 14 AWG at 15 A | 12 AWG at 15 A | 10 AWG at 15 A |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 25 ft | 12 AWG | 2.3 V (1.9%) | 1.4 V (1.2%) | 0.9 V (0.8%) |
| 50 ft | 12 AWG | 4.6 V (3.8%) | 2.9 V (2.4%) | 1.8 V (1.5%) |
| 100 ft | 10 AWG | 9.2 V (7.7%) | 5.8 V (4.8%) | 3.6 V (3.0%) |
Same copper planning math as the master chart — NEC Chapter 9 Table 8 resistances on 120 V, not a lab score for a named reel. At 25 and 50 feet, 12 AWG is the default. A short 14 AWG run is close on paper and still the wrong aisle for a motor that runs the whole driveway — see 12 vs 14. At 100 feet, 10 AWG is the honest 15 A answer — the 100-foot guide and 10 vs 12.
Why a thin cord trips and heats
Voltage drop is a resistor you can hold. On start, and again under a long spray, the motor asks for more current than a work light. A thin, long cord drops more volts, so the pump sees less voltage when it needs more amps. Current stays high, copper I²R heat rises along the run, wet contacts warm, and a garage or outdoor GFCI opens. The jacket can be warm the whole length, not just at a loose plug. That is a gauge-and-length problem, not a “weak washer.”
Leaving the reel coiled under that load makes it worse. Unspool what you are using. Two thin 50-foot cords chained together are a 100-foot drop plus extra wet contacts — see daisy-chaining. Buy one cord in the gauge the load wants.
Outdoor jacket is SJTW — not thicker copper
A pressure washer lives in spray, puddles, and sun. Buy a weather-rated jacket in the gauge you already chose: SJTW (or a harder outdoor type). The W letter keeps water and UV from eating the insulation. It does not add copper. A 16 AWG “outdoor” Halloween-light reel is correctly outdoor-rated and still the wrong product. Keep connections off the wet concrete where you can. A thicker cord is not a GFCI.
12 AWG default, 10 AWG on a long driveway
12 AWG is the default for a 13–15 A electric washer at 25–50 feet: one outdoor reel that can take the start hit and a continuous spray without being the weak link. Step up to 10 AWG when the run is a full 100 feet — house outlet to the far curb, a second bay, a boat — when lights already dip on a 12 AWG start, or when the washer lives on the cord all afternoon. 14 AWG is already the wrong aisle past a short run.
Circuit and wet work, not just AWG
- A 15 A washer wants a 15 A or 20 A circuit that is not already running a heater or a compressor. Two 15 A motors on one 15 A breaker is how driveways invent trips.
- GFCI protection outdoors is normal. A thicker cord does not fix a tired GFCI.
- Match the plug to the receptacle. Filing a 20 A blade to fit 15 A is how people invent a fire.
- Indoor SJT stays indoors. Driveway work is SJTW in the gauge you already chose.
Signs the cord is too thin
- The motor hums and will not start, or pressure sags in a normal spray then recovers when you let off the trigger.
- Lights on the same circuit dip when the washer starts.
- The breaker or GFCI trips on start, then holds if you plug in at the wall.
- The cord jacket is warm along the run, not just at a loose or wet plug.
Those signs can also mean a clogged nozzle, a kinked hose, or a tired GFCI. Check the washer. Then check gauge and length.
What “best” does not mean here
We are not ranking brands and we do not have a 9.4. A 12 AWG, 50-foot, SJTW cord with intact 15 A ends from a known listing is the product for a typical electric washer. Brand paint, lighted ends, and a retractable reel are convenience. They are not a substitute for copper, and a 16 AWG “heavy duty” outdoor reel is still 16 AWG.
Related CordGauge guides
Master chart
Extension cord gauge chartAWG × amps × length with copper voltage-drop planning numbers — and why the jacket color is not the spec.
12 vs 14
12 vs 14 gauge extension cordWhen 12 AWG is the right buy for a 15 A tool, and when a short 14 AWG cord is still enough.
10 vs 12
10 vs 12 gauge extension cordWhen 10 AWG beats 12 AWG on 100-foot 15 A motors, start sag, and a cord that lives on the shop floor.
15 A saws
Best extension cord for a circular sawNameplate amps, start surge, and the gauge that keeps a 15 A saw from sagging on a long run.
Table saw
Best extension cord for a table sawNameplate 15 A contractor saws, start surge, and when 12 AWG is enough vs when 10 AWG is the honest run.
Compressor
Best extension cord for an air compressorNameplate vs start surge on a 15 A portable compressor, why thin cords trip and heat, and when 12 AWG vs 10 AWG.
Long runs
100-foot extension cord gaugeVoltage drop at 100 feet. When 12 AWG is the floor, and when 10 AWG is the honest pick.
Daisy chain
Can you daisy-chain extension cords?Why two 50-foot cords are a 100-foot drop plus extra plugs — and why the thinnest link sets the ampacity.
Outdoor / SJTW
Outdoor extension cord gauge and SJTWSJTW is a jacket rating, not a thicker wire. Outdoor-rated still has to match amps and length.